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Hiking in Tepoztlan is breathtaking
Hiking and Mexico are not two words you normally find together, but energetic visitors to Tepoztlan should come prepared, packing a pair of sneakers. Nestled in the mountains south of Mexico City, the town is one of the country's best-keep secrets, even though it is only about an hour by car from the smoggy capital.
This oasis of greenery -- in the rainy season, at least -- also offers wonderful walks through the countryside along ancient trails still used by locals.
People here are accustomed to visitors, but the place is not overly touristy. One of its glories is a bustling central market. There are also handicraft booths,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and a more extensive market on Wednesdays and the weekends that overflow into the street, occupying the cops in a frenzy of whistle-blowing.
Tepoztlan is also a reputedly "magic" place and has thus become a centre for such New Age therapies as massage, yoga and acupuncture. Devotees can even undergo temazcal,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a kind of Aztec sweat lodge.
Lonely Planet Guide to Mexico City
Lonely Planet Guide to Mexico
For others,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], climbing the pyramid of Tepozteco is the rite of passage. Perched on the cliffs to the east of town, it was probably built in the early Aztec period (1100 to 1350) and named for Ometochtli-Tepoztecatl, the god of pulque, a sort of beer.
On a recent visit, my friends and I,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], all rather sedentary types, set out to scale the pyramid. I had done it once before some years ago and had forgotten -- luckily,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], as it turned out -- everything about the experience,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], except that there was a magnificent view from the top over the valley.
The town is at an altitude of 2,134 metres above sea level,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which can take a bit of getting used to. In addition,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], local hikers estimate the two kilometre climb up to the Tepozteco has an elevation gain of almost 400 metres.
It all starts with a deceptively easy incline, past booths peddling plastic pyramids, T-shirts and soft drinks. A tinny radio plays. Dogs sleep beside the dusty road,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], oblivious to the din.
"Agua fria," the vendors call alluringly. Cold water.
As we walk out of their view, the slope quickly grows steeper and the path deteriorates into a jumble of rocks. We pick our way ever upward among huge tree roots and massive boulders,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but at least the canopy of foliage provides shelter from the searing sun. We meet groups descending. "How far is it?" we ask. "Not far," they always reply.
They lie, which is probably a good thing, for if we knew the truth,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we would give up. At times we are on our hands and knees, scrabbling our way up. Rest stops become more frequent.
In all, the climb takes us more than an hour and the promised view takes away what is left of our breath. Buzzards float on the updrafts,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], while we explore the modest two-storey temple.
Two days after the pyramid triumph,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], our host suggests an early-morning hike with Abraham Moctezuma, an architect who's reputed to have climbed the Tepozteco more than 3,000 times and can do it in his sleep. He points out the cliffs studded with wild orchids like a pin cushion and explains the local approach to bush fires -- hope that they burn themselves out -- all the while leading us along the unmarked paths.
Despite the isolation of the trail, we meet men on horseback carrying lassos,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], straight out of a western, or people with some place to go. Abraham seems to know everyone, greeting them with a cheery "Hola!"
To keep us motivated,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he promises bagels in Santo Domingo, the village that is our destination. This is a joke, of course. There are only the usual soft drinks.相关的主题文章：

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