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Michelle Obama and the power of style
When Michelle Obama glided on to the landing of the White House's north portico two weeks ago in a stunning red organza dress by Alexander McQueen,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she started a fierce debate in the United States about her choice of a British label over an American one. Oscar de la Renta - a kind of Seventh Avenue elder statesman - deemed it inappropriate.
"My understanding is that the visit was to promote American-Chinese trade - American products in China and Chinese products in America. Why [would] you wear European clothes?" he asked Women's Wear Daily , the American trade newspaper. The Council of Fashion Designers of America,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], New York fashion's governing body,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], said it, too, was "a little disappointed" by the First Lady's choice.
Of course, the First Lady can wear whatever she likes, and Michelle Obama has been a terrific ambassador for a new generation of American designers, showcasing designs by virtual unknowns,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], such as Jason Wu and Isabel Toledo, for all-important occasions, such as her husband's inaugural ceremony. But the controversy over her red McQueen dress reminded us, once again,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], of the power of style when it comes to leading ladies around the world - particularly the first wives, those women who live in the political spotlight without policy responsibilities.
From Michelle Obama to Samantha Cameron and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, a new generation of wives is setting the tone for their respective spouses' administrations with cool,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], casual glamour. Although some leading ladies are unwavering in their support of their own country's talent - Bruni-Sarkozy favours French labels such as Dior and Hermès - they are savvy enough to know it would be bad form in lean times to take after Marie Antoinette. Hence, Obama's signature J Crew cardigans, Bruni-Sarkozy's demure flats, and Cameron's Marks Spencer dresses . They all project a similar politically-correct image: not too flashy, not too dowdy.
In the United States, this has been true since the earliest days of the Founding Fathers, when style played a crucial, if symbolic,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], role in politics. Martha Washington dressed in homespun clothing to differentiate herself from royalty. Dolley Madison,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], wife of James Madison, the fourth president of the United States,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], used her personal style to convey a mix of democratic warmth and royal opulence. She wore turbans with feathers in them and devised inclusive events at the White House,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], such as the Easter Egg roll and the Inaugural Ball.
Michelle Obama,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], on the other hand, has tapped right into the power of visual communication in the global culture. Her wardrobe is a canny calculation of high and low fashion. During the campaign, she outwitted the free-spending vice-presidential candidate Sarah Palin by showing up on The Jay Leno Show in a $340 J Crew outfit. Once in the White House,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she hosted a lunch attended by Nancy Reagan wearing a $40 floral Gap cardigan. And she is often photographed walking the family dog in jeans and Converse sneakers. Similarly,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Samantha Cameron - who made Vanity Fair 's best-dressed list last year - favours Uniqlo jeans and Zara blazers. She,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], too, made a statement with accessible fashion from the start, showing up at the Conservative Party Annual Conference in October 2009 in a polka-dot dress from Marks Spencer.
The next generation of leading ladies is already taking note. Kate Middleton appears to be dressing in an economically sensible fashion,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], maintaining her casual,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], practical style despite her soon-to-be-royal status. While nobody seems to care that the dress she chose for her engagement announcement was not designed by a Brit but by the Brazilian-born designer Daniella Issa Helayel, her preference for high-street brands has not gone unnoticed.
Miss Middleton has been spotted hunting for bargains at the discount store TK Maxx,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and rifling through the sale racks at every Chelsea girl's favourite department store,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Peter Jones. She even plumped for the high-street for her official engagement photos,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], wearing a £159 Reiss dress and a £95 silk blouse from Whistles. Like Obama, Middleton is careful to mix high fashion with affordable looks that project an accessible, everyday style: wrap dresses, skinny jeans, hunting boots,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and bomber jackets.
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