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Design pair a perfect fit
Armed with little more than a willingness to learn, an industrious young man packs his knapsack, farewells his family and sets off barefoot to make his fortune. After trying his hand at a number of trades, he discovers a talent for shoemaking. In his quest to perfect his art he travels far and wide,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], making boots and shoes for princesses, dancers, thieves and thespians until he crosses a continent to learn from an old master cobbler. There, he befriends a beautiful young Genie who wants to make her own magic shoes.
When the story reaches this point Eugenia (Genie) Neave looks up from quietly skiving a piece of red leather for a pair of bespoke knee-high, zip-up boots. She has been listening to Tim Shoeman Skyrme recount his life story, a biography that sounds more like a Brothers Grimm fairytale than a success story, and is made even more surreal by the industrial revolution-era tools hanging in the backroom of Eugenia Glenelg South shoemaking workshop.
MASTERING THE CRAFT
jobs have never been the go for Tim, the 64-year-old shoemaker-turned-teacher. Nor have shoes on his own feet ( doesn like to conform, says Eugenia, chuckling). Tim tried his hand at everything from scrub-cutting to possum-trapping as a young man in New Zealand until, at 25, a bout of illness prompted him to borrow a friend leather carving tools. Tim soon carved out a business crafting leather belts and bags.
Wanting to make himself some cowboy boots, he enrolled in a shoemaking course at Cordwainers College in London in 1978,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], then took a job at Freed of London Ltd,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a factory specialising in theatrical, dance and bespoke footwear.
made red Cossack boots for Russian dance troupes, bespoke period shoes for Shakespearean actors and ballet shoes for the famous Red Shoes movie, Tim says. But the strangest shoes he made were very high brown boots for an African princess whose value was based on her weight.
thighs were something like a metre around,'' he says.
But what Tim really wanted to do was make shoes from start to finish.
guy I was training with showed me what he knew, says Tim. I learnt all I could from the old books in the college library. with London miserable weather (which drove him to occasionally wear thongs),[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he bought a craft shop in Kuranda, Queensland, in 1983. He made from cowboy boots to clown shoes including boots with secret compartments under the arches for a jewel smuggler and tiny shoes for racing dogs.
But being 1800km from a fellow shoemaker meant he had no one to turn to when faced with problems. In 1992, on the brink of giving up on the craft, he took a short course in Adelaide with the late George Koleff, a Bulgarian master shoemaker,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and was so impressed he returned a year later to learn how to teach shoemaking from George. Enter ABOVE
The second child of a family of earnest, supportive artists, Eugenia has a different tale to tell.
Born and raised on a four-hectare hobby farm in Macclesfield, Eugenia found her way to bespoke shoemaking early on and now, at 36, with a partner and three children, remains enchanted with the craft. it gets you,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it really gets you, she says.
It first her when she undertook work experience in Year 10, then focused her Year 12 project on shoemaking with Renate Nisi and David Fewtrell of Macclesfield Shoes.
remember I had just gotten my P plates and was in my little VW Beetle my own car and I had my just-completed curly-toed jester shoes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], next to me on the seat. It was the most intense high,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], like some kind of drug hit,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she says of the moment she found herself in possession of a car and new skill. still get a little bit of that when I finish a pair that I happy with. took TAFE SA custom shoemaking course in 1993, but started the year with a short course headed by George, where she then met Tim. She and Tim moved into neighbouring maisonettes with another of George students,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], making shoes from home until Tim opened a shop in Brighton and invited Eugenia to use the workshop space.
She initially sold her shoes at an East End Market stall she shared with her father Christopher Neave, a jeweller and design lecturer. Her dad then opened the Silver Shop, a cooperative of a large group of jewellers in Hindmarsh Square, where she now sells her shoes.
She found that,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], like magic, fell into place with boxes of hard-to-get tools being donated by old shoemakers widows and windfalls of materials and machinery coming from defunct factories.
PROPER SUPPORT
for a shoemaker, Tim was very willing to give away knowledge and ideas, Eugenia says,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], recounting how he taught her that quality is everything. decision I make is about what better, not what faster, she says.
Tim gradually focused more on teaching and writing his how-to book Bespoke Shoemaking, that he now sells online along with his second book, Simple Sandal Making.
When he decided to leave Adelaide for the barefoot warmth of Queensland in 2003, where he now lives,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Eugenia took over the Brighton workshop. She only recently made the move to Glenelg.
was really nervous about him leaving because I thought,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], my God, who do I ask? But it was great because it made me realise what I did know,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Eugenia says. made me rely on myself. their styles and stories differ, they both keep notebooks by their beds to capture the shoe designs they dream about. And they both know what a pair of beautiful, comfortable shoes means to their clients, most of whom have feet that simply won fit shoes off the rack.
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